Bulnes: Excursion with funicular and Cabrales cheese cave in the Picos de Europa

Bulnes is the star of this day, a tiny mountain village reached by an underground funicular rather than a road. You also get the Cares Gorge, views toward Picu Urriellu, and a visit to the cave where Cabrales cheese is made. I especially like the mix of scenery and local food, since the day is not just a mountain photo stop.

I also like that the funicular ticket, private bus, village tour, cheese-cave visit, and tasting are included for $81. The main drawback is time: much of the day is spent on the bus, and parts of the English commentary may feel rushed when the group is served in both English and Spanish.

Key points to know before you book

• Bulnes is road-free: The village sits in the Picos de Europa and is reached by an eight-minute underground funicular.
• The Cares Gorge is a viewing stop: You see Poncebos and the gorge, but this is not a full Cares Route hiking day.
• Picu Urriellu is the big mountain view: A walk to the village viewpoint may reveal the peak known locally as Naranjo de Bulnes.
• Cabrales cheese is part of the culture: At the cave in Arenas, you learn how the strong blue cheese is made and aged.
• The final tasting is simple and local: Cabrales cheese is served with Asturian cider.
• Plan for a long day: The full excursion lasts 8 to 12 hours, with departure choices in Oviedo or Cangas de Onís.

Why Bulnes makes this day special

The Picos de Europa are at their best when you get away from the main roads. Bulnes gives you that feeling without requiring a long mountain hike. The village is tucked among steep peaks, with stone buildings, cobbled streets, and a quiet pace that feels very different from Asturias’s coastal towns.

The unusual part is how you arrive. The funicular travels through the mountain, not across an open hillside. The actual ride takes only about eight minutes, so do not expect wide views from the carriage. Think of it as a practical and slightly entertaining way to reach a place that once had no road access, rather than a scenic cable-car ride.

At the top, you have time to walk through Bulnes with a guide and then explore on your own. The village has a small chapel, Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, and a viewpoint with possible views toward Picu Urriellu. The peak is also called Naranjo de Bulnes and is one of Spain’s best-known climbing and mountaineering landmarks.

I like this stop because the appeal is not based on a long list of sights. Bulnes is about scale, quiet, stone, and mountain air. You can take a short walk, look closely at the traditional houses, and enjoy a place where mobile phone coverage is not available. That lack of signal is either a welcome break or a minor nuisance, depending on your priorities.

Poncebos and the Cares Gorge

The route begins with a bus journey toward Poncebos, following the Cares River and the mountain roads of the Picos de Europa. The drive from the starting point can take about three hours, depending on where you board and the day’s schedule. That is a serious chunk of time, but it also lets you see the scenery without having to arrange mountain transport yourself.

Poncebos is the starting point of the famous Cares Route, often called La Garganta Divina, or the Divine Gorge. The Cares River cut through the rock over time, creating a narrow canyon between high walls. From the stop, you can contemplate the gorge and river, take photographs, and get a sense of why this area draws hikers and climbers.

Be clear about what is included. You are not spending the day walking the full Cares Route. This excursion uses Poncebos as a scenic and geographic introduction before continuing to Bulnes. If your main goal is a full-day hike through the gorge, you need a different plan. If you want to see the area without committing to a major walk, this arrangement works well.

The scenery is the reward during this part of the drive. Roads, rock walls, river views, and small rural villages create a strong sense of Asturias beyond the usual city-and-coast itinerary. I would sit on the side of the bus with the best outward view when possible, though the direction of the route and available seats are not guaranteed.

The underground ride to Bulnes

At the funicular station below Bulnes, the group has a short break before boarding. The funicular ticket is included and is valued at $26.99, which helps explain the tour price. The ride itself lasts roughly eight minutes and passes through the mountain on a rail system pulled by cable.

The funicular is sometimes described as a train, but it is not a panoramic mountain railway. You will not see the gorge or peaks through large windows. The interest comes from the engineering and from the fact that it brings you directly into one of Asturias’s most isolated villages.

The schedule allows about 30 minutes around the funicular section, although the complete movement through the station and village takes longer once walking and organized timing are counted. Listen carefully to the guide here, since the group needs to move together and transport departures are fixed.

This is also one place where comfortable shoes matter. Bulnes has cobbled streets and uneven walking surfaces. You do not need technical hiking gear for the planned visit, but sandals or smooth-soled city shoes would be a poor choice.

An hour in the village of Bulnes

The guided visit introduces you to the village, then you get free time to look around. The compact size makes it easy to orient yourself. You can visit the chapel, walk along the stone lanes, and seek out the viewpoint for Picu Urriellu.

The exact mountain view depends on weather and visibility. Do not treat the peak as guaranteed just because it is part of the description. Mountain clouds can change the scene quickly, and the village itself remains worthwhile in poor conditions because of its setting and traditional character.

Lunch is not included, but the tour provides guaranteed access to Bulnes for lunch. That matters in a small place with limited options and a fixed group schedule. You should still budget separately for food and drinks, and you should not assume that the cheese tasting replaces lunch.

An hour of free walking is enough to see the central parts of Bulnes, but it is not enough for an ambitious hike around the surrounding peaks. The activity is best for people who want a taste of mountain life, not a demanding day on the trail.

The absence of mobile coverage can shape the stop. You can use the break to pay attention to the buildings, sounds, and views instead of checking messages. Bring any information you need before leaving the lower station, and keep your guide’s instructions in mind because communication becomes more limited.

Inside a Cabrales cheese cave

After Bulnes, the bus heads to Arenas de Cabrales, the home area of Cabrales cheese. This changes the focus of the day from mountain scenery to food tradition. At the cheese cave, you learn about the traditional method used to make and store this famous Asturian blue cheese.

The cave visit is relatively short, around ten minutes in the stated schedule, followed by a longer visit and tasting in Las Arenas. That means you should not expect a lengthy technical workshop. Instead, you get a compact explanation of the process and the role of the cave in Cabrales production.

Cabrales has a strong flavor and a firm place in Asturian food culture. The tasting lets you try it in the setting where its story makes sense, rather than ordering an isolated slice in a restaurant. The cheese is served with Asturian cider, a natural regional pairing and one of the most enjoyable parts of the afternoon.

Language is worth considering. The tour guide operates in English and Spanish, but some portions of the cheese-cave presentation may be delivered mainly in Spanish. English-speaking visitors may receive an iPad with translated text. If the spoken Spanish moves quickly, reading along can be difficult, so ask the guide to clarify key points when needed.

That limitation does not ruin the visit, but it does affect how much detail you absorb. If you care more about tasting and seeing the cave than a fully polished English lecture, you will likely be satisfied. If detailed English interpretation is essential, confirm the arrangement before booking.

Transport, timing, and the real value of $81

The price is $81 per person. For a full day of 8 to 12 hours, that includes round-trip private-bus transport, an expert guide, the Bulnes funicular ticket, a guided village visit, access for lunch, and a guided cheese-cave visit with tasting and cider. You still pay for any extra meal or drink.

I consider that fair value if you are staying in Oviedo or Cangas de Onís and do not have a car. The mountain roads, funicular access, and two different destinations would take planning on your own. The included funicular ticket alone has a stated value of $26.99, while the bus saves you from working out how to connect Poncebos, Bulnes, and Arenas de Cabrales.

The tradeoff is a long day with a lot of road time. The outbound bus portion can take about three hours, and the return drive is listed at roughly two and a half hours. Add loading, stops, the funicular, village time, and the cheese visit, and you can easily reach the longer end of the 8 to 12 hour range.

I would not book this for a relaxed half-day outing. I would book it when you want to cover several highlights in one organized trip and are willing to accept the bus schedule. The guide makes the day easier, but you give up some independence and flexibility.

Starting points are offered at the bus station in Cangas de Onís, on C. Uría in Oviedo, at Panadería Manín, and at Buendía Store Oviedo, depending on the option selected. Check your exact meeting point carefully, since it may vary. Return points include the same general locations.

Guide quality and language

The guide can lead the experience in English or Spanish. A guide named Santiago has been specifically associated with a very engaging day, with clear communication and strong experience managing the group. That matters here because the day has several moving parts and fixed transport times.

The overall plan is tightly packed. A good guide helps you understand when you can wander, when you need to return, and how the funicular and bus connections fit together. English explanations have been praised as good in some departures, but the quality of interpretation may vary when information is first delivered in Spanish and then repeated in English.

I would ask at the start how each stop will be explained. That simple question can help you decide when to stay close to the guide and when to use free time for photographs or lunch. If you do not speak Spanish, keep your expectations realistic at the cheese cave and ask for clarification rather than trying to read a translation while the presentation races ahead.

Who should choose this excursion

This is a strong choice for you if you want:

• A straightforward way to see Bulnes without arranging your own transport.
• Mountain scenery with only modest walking.
• A village visit combined with a local food experience.
• A full-day outing from Oviedo or Cangas de Onís.
• A guide who can provide context in English or Spanish.

It is less suitable if you want a strenuous hike, a quiet private visit, or a highly detailed English-language interpretation at every stop. It is also not suitable for wheelchair users or people with mobility impairments, given the funicular access, village surfaces, and walking involved.

Bring comfortable shoes and clothing for changing mountain weather. You should also carry money for lunch and extra drinks. The cider and cheese tasting is included, but it is not meant to cover the day’s main meal.

Should you book the Bulnes and Cabrales tour?

Book this excursion if you want the Picos de Europa in an efficient package: gorge views at Poncebos, a road-free mountain village, a funicular ride, and Cabrales cheese with cider. The strongest parts are the setting of Bulnes, the unusual underground arrival, and the way the tasting connects the scenery with local food.

Skip it if a long bus ride frustrates you or if your main goal is hiking the Cares Route. Also think twice if you need every explanation in polished English, since the cave presentation may rely partly on Spanish and tablet-based translation.

For most independent visitors without a car, $81 is a sensible price for the access and transport provided. Go with good shoes, allow the entire day, bring lunch money, and treat the journey as part of the mountain experience rather than a quick transfer.

FAQ

How long does the Bulnes and Cabrales excursion last?

The excursion lasts between 8 and 12 hours, depending on the departure option and schedule.

Where can I join the tour?

Starting points include the Estación de Autobuses de Cangas de Onís, C. Uría 58 in Oviedo, Panadería Manín, and Buendía Store Oviedo. Your exact meeting point depends on the option booked.

Is the Bulnes funicular ticket included?

Yes. The round-trip Bulnes funicular ticket is included in the excursion price.

How long is the funicular ride?

The ride through the mountain takes about eight minutes. It is underground, so it does not provide open mountain views during the journey.

Is lunch included?

No. The tour provides guaranteed access to Bulnes for lunch, but food and extra drinks are not included.

What is included in the cheese visit?

You receive a guided visit to the Cabrales cheese cave in Arenas de Cabrales, followed by a tasting of Cabrales cheese with Asturian cider.

Is the tour offered in English?

Yes. Live guiding is available in English and Spanish. Some content may be presented in its original language.

What should I bring?

Bring comfortable shoes and clothing suited to the weather. You should also bring money for lunch and any additional drinks.

Is the excursion suitable for wheelchair users?

No. The activity is not suitable for wheelchair users or people with mobility impairments.